The Rogue R1X Spot is one of the best values in LED Moving Head Fixtures! It simply out performs everything in its price range, but those savings won’t be worth it if you have to purchase a road case that is more expensive than your lights. Having a road case is a must for many schools, churches (especially portable ones), and rental companies. So we did what they told us couldn’t be done. We modified an intimidator case to fit our Rogues. And for $399.95, we got ourselves a great road case to protect and transport our fixtures.
We’ll be adapting a Chauvet DJ Intimidator Road Case S35X. It is a lightweight case for transporting 2 Intimidator moving head LEDs.
Intimidator Road Case S35X
- Lightweight road case designed to hold 2 Intimidator moving heads
- Tall lid allows hanging bracket and clamp to remain installed during transportation
- Elastically-hinged lid ensures the strap will never get caught when closing the lid
- Additional central compartment stores cables, clamps, or brackets
- Dual handles on each side make maneuvering much easier
- Save floor space with the built-in stacking cups for stacking multiple cases
- Locking casters prevent an accidental rollaway
- Weight: 77 lb (35 kg)
- Size: 31 x 18.9 x 33 in (790 x 480 x 840 mm)
- Compatible Fixtures: Intimidator Spot LED 350, Intimidator Spot 355 IRC, Intimidator Spot 355Z IRC, Intimidator Spot 375Z IRC, Intimidator Beam LED 350, Intimidator Beam 140SR and Intimidator Hybrid 140SR
- Pry bar
- 3M Contact Cement
- Table Saw
- 1-by of lumber
- Step One: is to remove the extended foam pieces from the bottom of the lid. You are able to rip them. You’ll be reattaching them later on to their new position. You can leave the flat square pieces in places. In total, there should be 8 foam pieces you move, and four that remain.
- Step Two: It is the middle compartment that makes this possible. Each Intimidator case has a central compartment for holding clamps or cables. You’ll be pushing the sides of it together to allow room for the larger Rogue R1Xs. There is a small box inside the compartment that you’ll need to remove. It is made of thin plywood, so it’ll be easy to break down using a pry bar and a small sledge hammer. You’ll want to strip away all the additional excess pieces until it is down to the bare wood.
- Step Three: You might need an extra helping hand for this step. With someone holding the case, insert a lever into each side to push against center pieces. They are attached in place by staples, and so you’ll need to break those staples to push the two sides together. We used two 2x4s as our lever, but any lever would do. Once free, push together, and center the two sides.
- Step Four: To secure the two side to become the middle wall, you’ll need to measure and cut four pieces of 1-bys of wood. There will be these little slots of bare wood at the top right by each corner of the middle wall where the padding stops. Cut four pieces of wood to fit into these slots with 3M contact cement, these will hold the compartment together.
- Step Five: Reattach the foam pieces at the top in their new position.